On Sat 1st
July 2006, James set off alone to undertake a straightforward climb up a peak
in the Kiental area of the Bernese Oberland in
Switzerland
. He was
planning to bivvi for the night and climb a peak called the
Büttlasse the next day.
He never returned on the Sunday.
A massive search
and rescue operation was put into effect, using helicopter, blood hounds and a
ground search. His trail was traced to his probable bivvi site, where the trail
disappeared.
I am writing this
on 1st September, and there has been no sign of James. All the
indications lead to the conclusion that he met with a tragic accident.
Paul, John and
Steve met James when we all took part in an expedition to
India
in the spring
of 2000. James was the youngest member of the team at 21, and he instantly
proved to be not only a superb alpinist, but also great company with a
fantastic sense of humour. He earned the respect of everyone on the trip. The
expedition succeeded in climbing two unclimbed and un-named peaks, and also
made the first ever crossing of the Panpatia pass over 6 days.
James started
climbing at a young age with his father in the
Alps.
The family had moved to
Switzerland
when James was
11. By the time we went on the expedition to
India
, James was
already a very experienced Mountaineer and Ski tourer. Following the
India
trip we met up with James in the Canadian Rockies in 2002, and did routes such
as Silverhorn on
Mount
Athabasca
. He also showed his
skill and determination again on a difficult ascent of Mt Asinaboine in very
unsettled weather with Steve.
Aside from the
climbing, James attended University in
Edinburgh
, where he was very
involved with the Mountaineering society and also the Wine tasting society!
Perhaps one of the most impressive routes he did in his time at
Edinburgh
was an ascent of Point Five Gully on
Ben Nevis.
He left
Edinburgh
with a first class
honours degree in Geology. Following on from there, he gained a place at
Basel
University
to undertake a PHD
researching into high pressure metamorphic rocks. His research was going very
well and he was due to complete his PHD next year.
He could also speak
3 languages fluently, although he was far too modest to say that he was fluent
in French, insisting he could ‘get by’!
The last time we
saw James was two weeks before he went missing, on our training weekend in the
Alps.
James was on good form, he was really fired up about the trip to
Antarctica
and we all enjoyed his company as always. We made lots of plans for future
climbing trips, with a promise to return to the
Alps
later in the summer for some more climbing. Ironically, our return to the
Alps
in August was under very different and sadder circumstances.
There is a great
deal to celebrate about James’ life. He packed a lot into his 28 years, and
made the most of both his leisure time and his working and academic life. The
thing that most people will remember about James was his kindness and
generosity. I never once heard James speak ill of anyone, and he was always
willing to help, whatever the situation. One of his great strengths lay in his
ability to get on with everybody, from all walks of life. His easy going and
understanding nature will live on as an inspiration to us all.
It only remains to
say is that he will be sorely missed. Not only on the expedition to
Antarctica,
but also as a friend and climbing partner. Our thoughts and best wishes go out
particularly to Pam and Andrew his parents, his brother Duncan and also to all
who knew and cared for him.
Paul
Josse 1/09/06
Raising a
glass in the Orny Hut – June 2006
‘The
Parting Glass’
Of
all the money e’er I had
I spent it in good company
And of all the harm I’ve ever done
Alas it was to none but me
And all I’ve done for want of wit
To memory now I can’t recall
So fill to me the parting glass
Goodnight and joy be to you all
Oh
if I had only enough to spend
And leisure time to sit a while
There is a fair maid in this town
Who sorely has my heart beguiled
Her rosy cheeks and ruby lips
I own she has my heart enthralled
So fill to me the parting glass
Goodnight and joy be to you all
Of
all the comrades e’er I had
They are sorry for my going away
And all the sweethearts e’er I had
They would wish me one more day to stay
Bu since it falls into my lot
That I should rise and you should not
I’ll gently rise and softly call
Goodnight and joy be to you all
Goodnight and joy be to you all